Match of the week

Turkish coffee cake and espresso

Turkish coffee cake and espresso

I was casting around for a dessert to make for friends on Saturday when I remembered this fantastic coffee cake from chef Margot Henderson’s book You’re all Invited. I suppose it’s more of a mid-morning or tea-time treat but I sometimes prefer cake to a full-blown pudding at the end of a rich meal.

It’s not as intensely coffee-flavoured as it sounds from the name. There’s a shedload of soft brown sugar - and sour cream - in the recipe which makes it taste quite fudgy (did I say it was light? Er, hem…) but you get that nice dark rich coffee taste without it being at all bitter.

I paired it on the night with a Noval 10 year old tawny port but it would also have been delicious with an Aussie port drinkalike like the D’Arenberg Nostalgia Rare Tawny or with a sweet oloroso sherry, madeira or marsala. But I enjoyed it most the following morning when I scoffed a piece for breakfast with a cup of espresso (which I always dilute with a bit of hot water). A black Americano would also hit the spot.

I do urge you to get the book which full of equally lovely recipes and quite delightful. You can read about Margot who happends to be married to Fergus Henderson of St John here or visit her restaurant Rochelle's Canteen which I'm ashamed to say I've so far not managed to get to.

Turkish coffee cake and Abanico Solera Gran Reserva Vi Dolc Natural

Turkish coffee cake and Abanico Solera Gran Reserva Vi Dolc Natural

One of the things I most enjoy doing when I get a new cookbook is flicking through sticking Post-it notes on the recipes I plan to cook and this recipe for Turkish coffee cake in Margot Henderson’s charming You’re all Invited really stood out.

I’m not sure in what way it’s Turkish - whether it’s Turkish because it includes coffee or that it's designed to go with coffee (which it would) - there’s no introduction on that page - but it’s unbelievably delicious: fudgy sweet with a big hit of cinnamon. And very easy to make.

We had it as a pudding with a glass of raisiny Spanish dessert wine, Bodegas Abanico’s Solera Gran Reserva* from Emporda which is made from white and red garnacha and aged in oak using a solera system for a minimum of 10 years. Similar to a Rivesaltes - in fact it's labelled Vi Dolc Natural. And is a similar ABV at 15.5%.

When I got round to reading the back label I discovered the suggested pairings were desserts, cakes, pastries, dried fruits and chocolate. So spot on then! A Vin Santo or Samos Muscat would work well too.

* UK stockists include Hedonism Wines, Carruthers & Kent, The Longship and Liberty Wines. The retail price is around £19.99 for a 50cl bottle.

 

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